715 Boston Post Rd. (Route 1) Guilford--203-453-1818 (www.villagegreene.net)
THE BEST SELECTION, SERVICE, AND PRICES ON THE SHORELINE!
PROJECTS/LAWNS: ***You should always start with a good soil test. Either buy a kit and do it yourself or send a sample from several areas of your lawn to The Ct. Agricultural Experiment Station in New Haven.
REMEMBER TO FOLLOW ALL LABEL DIRECTIONS ON ALL PRODUCTS
Keep qa journal of your garden activities for the year.
RAKE LAWN COMPLETELY....Now is the time for a strong hard raking of the entire lawn.
LIME....Almost all lawns need lime in this area. This is the time to do it. (See instructions for soil testing that will give you an exact reading of how much lime you will need, but it is almost impossible to over lime in this area)
CHEMICAL VS ORGANIC. FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANT...DO NOT USE A CHEMICAL IF YOU DO NOT NEED ONE. Just because a big box store and major fertilizer companies say it is time to use a chemical, does not mean YOUR LAWN needs that chemical. (Stop in and tell us how your lawn is, and we will customize a program for you) Example: IF YOU DO NOT HAVE A CRABGRASS PROBLEM, or do not care about weeds, then do not use a pre-emergent crabgrass/weed control.
USUALLY THE 1ST FERTILIZER APPLICATION IS DONE WHEN THE FORSYTHIAS ARE BLOOMING.
1st STEP: Use a pre-emergent control now to PREVENT crabgrass and other weeds. (If you need/want to) If you do not have a big weed/crabgrass problem and want to green up your lawn then just use a fertilizer without control in it. BUT USE OF MOST 1ST STEPS PREVENTS PLANTING OF GRASS FOR SEVERAL WEEKS. (Stop in, if this is the case and we can help you wrok around that problem)
ORGANIC WEED CONTROL: Use a corn gluten control with or without fertilizer now if you want to help with weeds with out chemicals. (We carry a full line of organic lawn fertilizer and controls)
MISC. MARCH TIPS:
Wood Ash can be applied at a rate of 5lbs. per 100 sq. ft. to maintain pH. (Also provides some potassium)
Cold temperatures will usually not hurt tender bulbs.
Make sure you use sterilized soil for seed planting.
PROJECTS/PERENNIAL BEDS & SHRUBBERY BEDS.
1)As we said above, a soil test is always very important. Follow instructions above to get one or do it yourself.
2)Lime if needed, working it into the soil, and following label directions.
3)Clean out all leaves and winter debrie from the beds.
4)Put down a new layer of mulch and a pre-emergent like PREEN if desired to help with the weeds.
5)Fertilize as per soil test. A good slow release fertilizer is usually used twice a year in perennial beds.
WHAT CAN BE SAFELY PLANTED NOW.
*Peas, and Spinach in mid/late March, as long as ground is workable.
*Early Vegetables. Cabbage, leeks, lettuce,kale, onions.
*Pansies. DR. LEIGH'S TIP: In window boxes and pots, plant parsley along with pansies. The later just remove pansies and put in annuals. Parsley will take the cold. If it gets real cold pansy leaves will turn a dark purple. This will not grow out. So when very cold, you should bring in or cover.
*Perennials Most can be done now. Stop in for exceptions.
*Herbs. Some can take the cold. Stop in and we can show the best one.
*Shrubs Most all shrubs can be planted now.
*Trees Most all trees can be safely planted now.
Prune blueberries, raspberries and grapes.
Prune late summer blooming shrubs. Also a great month for pruning Fruit trees, blueberries, raspberries and grapes.
HYDRANGEA: Prune/trim macrophylla (mop head) HYDRANGEA back to new shoots on old stems.
Prune/trim paniculata (PG) hydrangea can be cut back to desired size now.
When pruning multi-stemed shrubs, remove the oldest branches.
For more exact information, just stop in!
Blueberries should be pruned have year.